Jewish delis in a pickle as trends change

When Junior’s Deli closed in late December, longtime customers lined up for a last, nostalgic nosh at the 53-year-old Los Angeles- area institution. But Brian Won’s main reaction was “meh.” “The food was unremarkable,” said the West Los Angeles IT specialist, 32, who visited to use up a Groupon voucher. “Given that there are so many good places to eat in L.A., I have a really hard time saying yes to that.” Increasing apathy, particularly from younger patrons, has driven traditional Jewish delicatessens from their mid-century pinnacle. The decline seems to be accelerating partly because of health concerns over the schmaltz-spread fare and partly because bagels are now available in every supermarket. Add sides of restaurant-industry slump and rising lease rates, and even local landmarks aren’t immune.